Washington PCT 2015: Planning Details

This post will be boring to anyone not interested in backpacking themselves: The gear list and plan.
Please skip it if you are not interested. But if you, like us on our first hike, want to hear about what gear we used, this post is for you.

We planned to hike only across Washington, starting at Cascade locks on the north side of the river, and ending in Canada.

Permits:
We hiked more than 500 miles so we chose to make donations to PCTA and they provided us with a thru-hiking permit for the entire state. If you are interested in shorter sections, particularly through some parks, getting the proper permits can be a little more difficult.
We also hiked into Canada, which requires a permit to enter. Otherwise, we would be illegal immigrants. Interesting fact: As or 2016, it is illegal to hike into the US on the PCT and there are no permits available to do so. So Southbound hikers must actually hike north to the border and then back south to avoid breaking the law.
Both of the permits can be accessed on the PCT website, pcta.org.

Tent: We used a Big Agnes Fly Creek 2-man tent. It was a little cramped for two tall people but otherwise perfect for us. It was possibly our biggest purchase and hurt my cheapskate heart a little bit. But it is really light and sturdy and is worth the price.

Packs: Laura used a Dueter pack. She swears that their hip-belt fits lady-hips better than anything else. I chose my Columbia Sportswear Edura based solely on the fact that it was the right size and a good price on Craigslist. I bought it from a guy who had planned to hike but never really did so it was like new. I would not suggest this to most people because lots of things can go wrong with a pack. But it worked for me.

Shoes: Laura uses Keen boots because they have more space in the toe-box than other brands. They have lasted a long time; well over 100 miles so far! My Brooks Cascadias (with superfeet insoles), on the other hand, were trash by the end of the state. They were the 10th model of the shoe and are now notorious for ripping across the toe-box where the laces end. I was happy with them regardless because they were light and supportive and I never got blisters.

Water Filtration: We used a Sawyer squeeze. If you get one, get the regular size, not the mini. The mini works way slower and is practically the same weight. Also, watch out about the bags. They break if you are not very careful. You can just use a platypus bag or something else. Also, don't let the filter freeze or it will stop filtering and you will get sick.

Stove: We used the Jetboil. It is light enough, compact, and pretty foolproof. It boils water fast and takes quite a while to run out of fuel.

Food: We ate mostly oatmeal for breakfast. We made our own with old fashioned oats, chia seeds, sugar, nuts, and dried fruit. For lunch, we had a lot of tuna with tortillas or with salty crackers. For dinners, we bought a bunch of mountain house meals at Costco. I like GORP for a trailmix. We also had Snickers and Payday bars. For dinner we also ate mac-n-cheese and mashed potatoes with veggies mixed in. There were other things, but that is most of it.

Resupply: We had a resupply about every 100 miles. We send food to Trout Lake, White Pass, Snoqualmie Pass, Stevens Pass, and Stehekin. Trout Lake kind of requires a ride into town.White pass and Snoqualmie pass are basically on the trail. Stevens pass required a ride because we sent to the Skykomish Post Office. You can send to the actualy resort at the pass now... but it is still nice to go down and meet the Dinsmores. They are wondeful people. Stehekin requires a ride a few miles into town on the shuttle.

The hike took us forty days but we stopped for zeros a few times. We stayed in a room in Troutlake, in a hotel on White pass, in a hotel on Snoqualmie pass, in a hotel in Skykomish, at the Dinsmores, and at "The Ranch" in Stehekin. These were all "zero" days. We also took the alternate route north from Snoqualmie pass and stayed at the Goldmeyer hot springs.

If you have questions about this, or thoughts, feel free to comment. I will do anything I can to help answer questions if you are planning.

That wraps up the planning portion of things. Next, we will begin the hike!

Washington PCT 2015: Pre-trip

Riding a bike across Washington was a fun time! I loved it but I certainly wanted to do more. What I had not considered was how much my wife, Laura, also wanted to see the outside world. Late in the fall, as winter was beginning, she mentioned maybe wanting to do a solo hike of the PCT. Then, after watching "Wild" together, we talked about it a lot more.

A pretty day in the gorge

This was a big deal for her. As the only daughter in her family, she felt that she had missed out on some of the more athletic and outdoor activities that boys are often encouraged to engage in. She was encouraged to be safe, and perhaps to avoid some risks in life. Now, she wanted to take some of those risks. She wanted to solo hike on the PCT. Listening to her made me happy and proud. I don't know about other men, but I want to be married to a woman who is free, powerful, and beautiful in her own security. We had lots of fun talks about her plans over Christmas break.

Hiking Hamilton mountain together

Over the spring, we squirreled away some money for proper equipment, which Laura dutifully researched as only she can (she is really good at researching stuff). In the meantime, we talked about me joining her once school got out. This was a good plan because I had a bit more outdoor experience, and Laura was completely new to backpacking. It may seem backward to some that she would start out alone but it made sense to me. You see, I understood the value of mistakes and struggle from my own solo bike trek. I also didn't want to fall into the role of the guru hiker "man-splaining" everything to his newbie wife. That would not be enjoyable for either of us. Beside, Laura wanted to do a solo hike while I was still teaching HS. Why would I try to take that away from her? The final plan was this: Laura would start hiking north through Oregon in May. I would finish school and meet her near the Washington border. Then we would continue on to Canada.

Cape Horn with my brother and nephew

Preparing for the PCT is a little complicated. Most hikers have a tentative schedule so that they can send the proper amount of food and supplies to stops along the way. This type of planning was a bit of a challenge for us as a couple. I tend to be pretty relaxed about things, trusting that things will be fine and always throwing in a bit extra just in case. Laura tends to meticulously plan and pack exactly what she wants, no more and no less. The cool thing is that both methods worked. But it didn't make trusting each other with food packing any easier.

Sorting out supplies

We got Laura a nice new Dueter backpack, a lightweight 2-man tent (to share later), and a SPOT gps beacon. There were other important purchases but is was a long time ago and I am not a details person. Feel free to ask if you have questions about any of that. As for my stuff, I got a Columbia Sportswear backpack that was like new on Craigslist. Oh, we also chose to use sawyer squeeze water filters because they are easy and instant.

Ready to go

As spring break approached, we got the boxes of food together for Laura. Finally, the time came for me to drop her off. We had a great trip down to the Oregon/California border. It was weird leaving her in the middle of nowhere, but I knew she could take care of herself. And she did. Things didn't go as she planned but she made quite a few miles, and became a pro over the week she was on the trail. I won't go into many details, but the Oregon PCT is kind of a mess in early summer and often still snowy. Laura fought bad conditions and made it about a quarter of the way across the state before throwing in the towel. I now know how she felt because I made a similar decision last summer. Regardless, she came home about 2 weeks before school was out and we got ready to do Washington together.

At the border

Goodbye, my love!

Not everyone can hike as a couple but this proved to be one of the best trips we will ever go on. We still both dream about it. I am so glad Laura enjoys the outdoors and we can share it together.

On the trail in Washington

John Wayne Trail 2014: Trip home

Nice lady from the train station. We talked about living on a houseboat.

The trip home was a long one. But it was amazing to me how well you can get around by bus on the peninsula. I was able to get on a bus in Forks, transfer near Lake Quinalt, transfer at Aberdeen, and get a train from Olympia back to Vancouver. I met lots of fun people on my way home but I was a little bit in shock after all of the lonely riding.

Comfy on a train

My traveling companion since Lake Quinalt. He told me about the train.

After the ride, I thought to myself that I need to do more of this stuff. I also had a lot of fun messing with my facial hair because I rarely grow it out. I started the school year with a pretty amazing mustache! I am so glad that I took the risk and got on that bike. I don't know if the following summers would have happened if I didn't!

A fun look!

A funny look!

I don't think I would change anything about my first trip. It was definitely a bit rough in spots. I would definitely prepare better, use better equipment, plan my sleeping arrangements, and pack differently. But all of the rough spots have long since turned into fond memories. I am so glad that I have them! And I was more prepared for my next adventure in 2015 with my wonderful wife! Planning things like this is fun and therapeutic as a teacher because I spend a lot of energy on people's kids throughout the year. It is nice to have something to fantasize about during the tough times. I am so thankful to God for a healthy body and the leisure to explore this beautiful world. I am such a lucky person!

John Wayne Trail 2014: Day 11

Tidal flats just outside Salt Creek Campground

My final morning of riding began beautifully. However, as I got closer to Forks it got more overcast and rainy. I left while everything was perfectly still. Cutting south toward Crescent Lake, I climbed into the Olympic mountains a bit. The lake was gorgeous. I can see why it was a sacred lake for local tribes.
  

Last view of the Straight of Juan de Fuca

Heading up in the mountains

Crescent lake, with a few raindrops

On a trail again

The trail around the lake wasn't really a bike trail. It was rocky in spots and had some downed trees. But it was certainly passable. I only feel sorry because it is impolite and not ecologically wise to ride on a hiking trail. In this case though, I felt cutting through this 2 mile trail was the best choice to get to Hwy 101 and continue to the coast.

Not really meant for bikers

Pretty lake

Cool footbridge over a swimming hole

Loving life

Thought about jumping in, but it was too cold

Looking east toward Port Angeles

Yummy

On pavement again

After a short paved sections, the trail joined Hwy 101, heading east to Forks. It had already sprinkles a little but I could see lightening ahead an knew I would probably be getting wet. All went well, except a few moments of confusion with drivers. There are no shoulders on the bridges and some well-meaning drivers will slow down and insist you go ahead of them... thoughtful, but unnecessary on a mostly empty highway.

On the road again, but storm clouds ahead

Heading into Forks

I finally made it to Forks, and took a right to head down to La Push beach. This was the most dangerous part of my ride. The road was really curvy, thin, and wet. There were also many cars. I will never ride that road again! I did make it to the ocean without incident and stopped quite a while to enjoy my achievement. That is a pretty beach where I would love to sea-kayak. I took some pictures of the Twilight paraphernalia, although that was all found in the Forks area. I got the feeling that the tribes in La Push are not particularly pleased with being known as a tribe of werewolves. Then again, I never asked. I did talk with a nice girl on a shuttle back to Forks. We chatted about the choice to leave or stay on tribal land. It seemed to me that "to stay or go" is a particularly difficult decision for people on tribal lands.
  

Scary road to the beach

Silly sign at a campground

And again...

Hello, La Push

I can see the ocean!

Made it!

Thanks for not falling apart, bike!

La Push beach

Back in Forks, I planned my trip back home. I didn't want to make anyone pick me up because it is a surprisingly long drive from Portland up to Forks. You have to drive around all of the mountains and lakes and can't go very fast at times. Anyway, I found that I had missed the last bus of the evening. So I got some dinner, chilled, and got a place to sleep. Unfortunately, every hotel was full. I ended up paying a little bit to sleep in a hotel lawn.

Total miles for the trip

Soggy feet after riding in the rain

Drying out at the bus station

Apparently Forks had a history before Twilight

Yummy food at a local diner

John Wayne Trail 2014: Day 10

View of the sunrise from the pebbly beach

My morning in Port Townsend was very nice. It was one of my favorite sunrises ever! I eventually rode into town and got some breakfast and extra food for my last leg of the trip. Port Townsend is a nice town with lot of great views of the sound!

Path from park to beach

View from my park

Sunrise in Port Townsend

Great place for breakfast

So peaceful

After getting food, I started down the Olympic Discovery Trail. I saw the old paper mill south of Port Townsend. Apparently, it only produces recycled paper now. Good for them! Then the trail cut across to Discovery Bay. The road leading to Hwy 101 was one of the more dangerous stretched of my trip... but it was pretty.

All the visiting boats anchored from last night

The Port Townsend paper factory

Heading west

Discovery Bay

More Discovery Bay

Crazy line of rail-cars off Hwy 101

Discovery Bay looking East

Cool old sign

Tribal Center

First of many bridges

Lots of highway riding on the peninsula

After a bit of highway riding over a peninsula, I arrived at the Jamestown Tribal center. A little tired and not having stopped for a while, I slipped off a path and had my first and only fall. I didn't cry though... it was merely a flesh wound. I met some nice people and chatted before continuing on through Sequim. There were lots of cool old bridges around here and I saw a few people, particularly when passing through parks and by schools. I finally arrived at Port Angeles, where I caught up with an old friend.

Ouch!

My favorite of the bridges

Also a nice bridge

Almost there

Port Angeles

Leaving Port Angeles, I has some path-finding to do. The Olympic Discovery trail ends at this city. Continuing on Hwy 101 would be difficult because everyone I asked said it was very dangerous along the south side of Crescent lake. In the end, I chose to go NW to camp at Salt Creek campground. It was gorgeous. There were deer everywhere. There was no beach but stairs led down to a shelf of rock that was exposed at low tide. There were coin-operated showers and I scrounged up 50 cents. It was a great evening! I was excited to finish my trip the next day!

Sunset riding

Crazy deer

It was breathtaking

Cool place to stand

Pretty

I could see Canada

Still beautiful

Can you tell I liked this sunset?

Feelin' clean!

One last look at the sunset