Training Hike: Hamilton Mountain

On February 25, I went on my first of many "training" hikes in the Columbia river gorge. I had just finished a fun day accompanying 7 High School students at the local Solo and Ensemble contest. The sun was out and it was only about 3:00 pm. I started up the gorge and stopped at Beacon Rock but found it was closed.

No Beacon Rock hike for me

It was about 4:00 at this point and I didn't want to drive anywhere else so I hiked across the highway to the Hamilton mountain trail head. It is a great hike and just about 9.5 miles long. Click here for more info on that trail. Now is the part where I will give a short disclaimer: What I chose to do next was pretty dumb. I mean, I did bring a headlamp and food and water and I knew the topography from hiking this a few times before but it is rarely a good idea to hike in the dark. So what did I choose to do? I decided to hike the entire loop as fast as possible! It was a training hike, wasn't it?

Building at the trail head

I left the trail head at about 4:15, having hiked about a quarter mile up from the highway to get there. I knew I would likely arrive back after dark and didn't want my car to be locked behind the park gate at dusk.

Hamilton Mountain, here I come!

There were patches of snow all over the place, occasionally on the trail as well. I booked it up to Hardy falls in about 15 minutes due to how level the terrain was. The falls was gigantic compared to other times of year and I could see it well since there were no leaves in the trees.

Snowy trail

As I crossed the bridge below the pool of the winds, I ran into a group of people who said the trail ahead was muddy and difficult. I hiked on knowing I could always turn around if I thought the trail was too rough.

Hardy Falls

I immediately ran into the biggest obstacle on my hike, a big tree that had blocked the trail pretty well. But I felt confident and climbed around it without even slipping!

Hmmm...

How'd that get there?

View to the south

I love the Hamilton mountain hike because of the great views!  About half of the way up the mountain there is a grassy bluff above the trees with a great 180-degree view of the gorge. I stood there and took in the evening light at about 5:00. Sunset was just beginning and I got to watch it progress as I hiked the rest of the way to the peak of the mountain.

Hamilton mountain

Beautiful sunset

As I approached the peak, the snow became more substantial. Soon I was scrambling up a solid snowy bank following footprints left by earlier hikers.

More snow

Sunset from the peak

I stopped at the peak of the mountain to take in an amazing panoramic view! Usually I can't see much from the top of the mountain due to the trees but they had no leaves and I was standing on a solid 3 feet of snow at this point. So I could see forever in all directions. It was almost 6:00 at this point and I made another questionable decision: Continue to follow the trail around the loop.

Table mountain and the gorge

Before I got to the peak of Mount Hamilton, I had decided that I would follow the trail if I saw substantial footprints in the snow. I did not want to lose my way! I assumed that the snow would quickly disappear as I lost altitude and that the trail (really an access road) would be much easier is I continued.

That's my ridge walk

What followed was a twilight ridge-walk on 3 feet of snow. I was simultaneously stunned by the beauty of the landscape and frightened to still be so high and exposed as darkness began to gather. I hiked as quickly as possible to make it down to the access road and off the snowy ridge before the light made it hard to see good footholds.

Table mountain and the PCT...

I eventually made it down to the saddle behind Hamilton mountain where the road walking begins. But I found that the road was on a very shaded part of the ridge and had a solid foot of snow on it. Also, there were many downed trees trying to trip me up. Still, I jogged long sections of this road to get down below the snowline before it got really dark.

On the road again...

At about 6:20 I arrived at a fork 4 miles from the trail head. The remaining trail was well graded but there were many sections in which a steep bank of snow stretched across it, making the hiking less than ideal. There were also many downed trees. But I watched my step and worked my way down to the trail head and then the car by 7!
 

That bridge is BURIED!

I had hiked about 10 miles in 3 hours... not my goal on the PCT but not bad for my first training hike on a snow-covered trail and in the dark! One voice in my head screams that this was a stupid idea but another voice argues that I would never have seen that beautiful sunset without a little risk! I refuse to take sides. They are both fair arguments!  

2017 FKT Plans: The Gear

Burney Falls(Day31)
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I must admit up-front that I enjoy paying less for things. I got this tendency from my father, who taught my brothers and I to make due with existing supplies in most situations. I still remember the amazing tent that he customized to attach to out volkswagen van as children. I remember dad attaching a trailer hitch to our station wagon and putting spacers in the rear struts so that it wouldn't bottom out all the time... and replacing them multiple times during our family road trip. I also remember rafting class 3 rapids in cheap inflatable sevylor canoes with home-made wooden frames to make them rigid. I loved those experiences with all of their faults and my first idea in most situations is to rig something that will work rather than buying the solution. I feel this way about my gear but I also don't want to ruin my chances of success by using gear that simply will not make it 2650 miles across the US. So I have taken the time to buy a few good quality things... not necessarily the best... but who cares if I can make it work, right?

Castle Crags (Day32)
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My Backpack: Columbia Sportswear Endura

Note: I have NEVER met someone on the trail with this pack so I am including the picture for reference.

I got my backpack two years ago on craigslist. In general, I would not suggest this method of shopping to others but I am a cheapskate and the guy said he was tall and that it was like new! I have now used this pack to hike both Washington and Oregon so it has become a friend over the years. I will likely have to retire it after this thru-hike... but who knows, it is a pretty tough pack.
Pros: It is not very absorbent and has a built in rain cover. I like the lack of fluffy absorbent fabrics and foams because my sweaty body gets to breath more and the pack probably weighs less in the rain than others. I also like the simplicity of it. It has two decent outside pockets, two bottle holders, and one big main section to hold everything else. Lots of pockets can be a selling point for some but I get confused pretty quickly and can't find stuff when there are lots of compartments that I can use. Finally, I like the cords for tightening the pack around its contents. I intend to use those to tighten my pack as it gets more empty so that weight doesn't shift when I jog.
Cons: Sometimes it feels short... I think it is because the shoulder straps are made of pretty rigid foam so they don't form conform to my body like other shoulder straps. This really only bothered me on long, difficult, uncomfortable days so I am not sure about my objective perspective.

Trinity Alps (Day33)
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My Tent: TBD
Laura and I used a Big Agnes Fly Creek Tent for the last couple years. It was a big investment but very well worth it. While I often enjoy getting by with cheap gear, I think that a real backpacking tent is a must for anyone doing a hike of any distance. They weigh far less than "camping" tents and are easier to set up. Laura will be using our Big Agnes tent this summer so I must move on to a different tent.
I have a bivy sack that I got for $12 and a mesh pop-up tent that I got for $8 at a used goods store... I have considered using them but I think that maybe having a nice tent to sleep in will be a must when hiking long miles everyday in the exposed world. So I am currently looking for my new tent... I hope to get a good deal!
Pros/Cons: I love the Big Agnes but I am not very picky with tents... all I can say is it works great!

Marble Mountians (Day34)
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My Sleeping Bag:  Kelty Ignite 20 degree (long) with Hi-Down
Sleeping bags are another thing that is hard to skimp on. I like my sleeping bag. I bought it on sale at REI a couple years ago. It is plenty warm... in fact, I have often had to leave it open most of the night to stay cool after a long day of hiking. I also use a sleeping bag liner to keep it clean and kind to have layers while sleeping.
Pro/Cons: Sometimes too hot... but that's my fault for buying a 20 degree bag. Again, it is a great bag and I have no real complaints!

Seiad Valley (Day35)
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My Water Purification: Sawyer Squeeze
I love these filters. I tend to avoid the mini filter because it works more slowly than the full-size filter. Using the filter requires a bit of patience because you have to physically squeeze water through the filter... that can be tough in an area with mosquitoes. The bags have been prone to break in the past but they are more reinforced now and if you are careful about what part of the bag gets lots of stress you can make them last.

Oregon Border (Day36)
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My Clothing:
- I will have a base layer (fancy long-johns) that I bought at Costco.
- I will have a pair of nylon pants that zips off to make shorts.
- I will have a t-shirt that will probably be replaced while hiking.
- I will have 3-4 pairs of socks... Balega running songs and Darn-Tuff socks. I like to have lots of extra dry socks and rotate them on soggy days.
- I will have a tux-shirt for the first 700 miles in the desert.
- I will have stocking cap for cool mornings.
- I will have a nice down jacket (no hood).
- I will have a rain shell that I bought at Costco.

Ashland Valley (Day37)
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 My Shoes:
- I bought 4 pairs of Brooks Cascadia's on sale at REI from last season. I like how sturdy they are. I may add some green super-feet insoles. I should be able to get through the hike with just the four pairs of shoes.
- I am not sure about water-shoes. Perhaps I will take crocks. Perhaps I will carry my old shoes for fords as soon as I get a new pair. Perhaps I will just walk through water in my shoes and let them dry out while walking... not sure.

Mount McLoughlin (Day38)
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My Stove:
Laura and I use jet-boil stoves. I love them and they are fairly light. There are certainly lighter stoves out there but I prefer jet-boil because their stove is so simple and fool-proof. I am vacillating between using a stove or leaving it behind to save weight. Based on my previous experience, I think that I can make the miles with a stove... and warm food is an amazing thing to have in the morning... undecided about that.

Crater Lake (Day39)
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My Other Stuff:
- Bathroom kit including spade, TP, and hand sanitizer.
- Toothbrush, toothpaste.
- Very light first-aid kit.
- Headlamp
- Pocket knife
- Small butane lighter
- Paper maps and compass
- Debating contacts vs. glasses still.
- Hat and Bandana
- Sunscreen, bug spray
- Battery to charge phone and mp3 player
- GPS beacon
- Plenty of nylon parachute cord

Rosary Lakes (Day 40)
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That is about all I can think of at the moment. I may have missed a few things but this covers virtually everything that I will be carrying on my back. I will probably post final pictures later but won't want to write out a list at that point. My gear list is not very top-of the line. Honestly, I am much more interested in saving money. However, I would suggest to anyone interested in a big hike that you spend real money on three things: your tent, your backpack, and your sleeping bag. Everything else can be pretty wildly improvised to fit your taste. Feel free to cut all the corners you like!

Three Sisters (Day 41)
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2017 FKT Plans: The Food

Lake Virginia (Day 20)
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Food will be a very important aspect of a hike as fast and unrelenting as I am attempting. The accounts of others attempting speed hikes all have one thing in common: lots of lost weight... and I don't mean "Wow! I finally lost my baby fat." I mean legit, watch out for your health, dramatic weight loss! Being a tall wiry fellow, I don't have a lot of weight to lose so I really need to plan well to avoid malnutrition/starvation.

Tuolumne Meadows (Day 21)
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Because I will likely lose a lot of weight on the trail regardless of what I do, I am going to try to eat like a football player as I train this spring. I usually weigh about 162 or so but I would like to start the hike at a slightly more substantial 180 lbs. To build my body up, I will be eating a lot of proteins and natural fats along with lots of veggies and fruits to stay balanced. As for carbohydrates, I will be not be avoiding them but eating donuts and pizza all day long is not the proper way to gain healthy weight.

View near Sonora Pass (Day 22)
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I am also planning to delve into the world of protein shakes. I am still researching whey and casein powders to pick the right supplement. I may very well work some powder into my trail meals during the hike also.

Upper Blue Lake (Day 23)
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I will aim to ingest 6000 calories of food each day if possible. That will likely be enough to maintain a healthy body weight but this is just guesswork based on what I have read. That is a lot of food to carry! So I will focus on calorie dense foods in my preparation. People have different ways to approach this dilemma. Some pack lots of candy and snacks because they are high in calories. Others try to avoid "empty" calories by eating more healthy things like muesli, cured meats, quinoa, etc.

Aloha Lake (Day 24)
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It is my intention to borrow the best from both worlds. I will eat a hearty, and pretty healthy, breakfast and dinner, meant to "stick to my bones" for a while. I will then try to have hourly snacks designed to fuel the engine of my body as it continues for hours without any substantial relief.

Tinker's Knob (Day 25)
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My go-to "hearty" breakfast is currently:
- Oatmeal with dried apples, cinnamon, sugar, chia seeds, walnuts, and maybe a little protein powder. I will also pack oatmeal with other fruits/berries to keep things interesting.  I will also be experimenting with muesli mixed into the oatmeal to make it more substantial.

My lunch will mostly be tortilla wraps with peanut butter, jelly, Nutella, honey, etc. as I see fit. I have used tuna packets in the past and may pack a few again. They have few calories considering all of the water weight, and they can get a little difficult to eat on some days... but they are also a little more substantial in other ways  and more likely to settle my stomach after eating snacks all morning.

My go to "hearty" dinner will likely be:
- Dried meat mixed with dehydrated re-fried beans. I have not tried this but heard it was good on another hiker's site.

Lakes near Sierra City (Day26)
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In between, I will snack on a lot of different things, various trail mixes (GORP is my favorite), jerky, Peanut M&M's, Snickers, Payday bars, chocolate-covered anything, fruit leather, Oreos, other cookies, Fritos, other chips, granola bars, energy bars, etc.

My goal is to start out the day feeling stuffed with good food rather than eating a bar and then running out of energy in the late morning. As the day wears on, I will try to eat every hour. By continually eating, it is my hope to keep the energy to a maximum... the proper use for the "empty" calories I will eat during that time. Lunch will be nothing more than a glorified snack. But when I arrive at camp in the evening I will settle down and eat hearty again (even if I don't feel like it) to give my body something to digest so that it can fortify for the next day. Eating a big dinner will also probably help me sleep, along with Benadryl.

Mount Etna (Day27)
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I will also be taking some supplements. I already mentioned adding protein powder to some food if possible. I will also be using EcoDrink powdered vitamin supplements in at least one liter of water every day. This will be particularly important in the desert when electrolytes must be considered. Another vitamin that I will take with every meal: one ibuprofen to help fight inflammation. Taking ibuprofen is so common on the trail that it is often referred to as "vitamin I".

PCT midpoint (Day28)
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Below is my one and only calorie-counting session... something I never thought I would do in life. But it will really help plan the amount of food that I can/must carry between resupplies. I really want to be prepared so this is my planned intake for one hypothetical day:

6 am : Breakfast - Oatmeal (approx 150(oats),       96(sugar), 100(nuts), fruit, muesli.. = 400+ calories)
7 am : Fruit leather  (50 calories)
8 am : Snickers bar  (250 calories)

I won't eat all of the chips/crackers... otherwise, a day of food.

9 am : Granola (Approx 200 calories) 
10 am : Chocolate covered raisins (1 cup = 702 calories) (964 calories for almonds)
11 am : Peanut M&M's (1 cup = 877 calories)
12 am : Lunch - PB/Nutella tortilla wrap (approx 148(Tort), 600(spreads),.. = 800 calories)
1 pm : Jerky(approx 150 calories)
2 pm : Chocolate covered granola bar (140 calories)
3 pm : GORP (1 cup = 853 calories)
4 pm : Fruit leather (50 calories)
5 pm : Fritos (4-5 ounces = 500 calories)
6 pm : Payday bar (240 calories)
7 pm : Dinner - Beans'n'Meat (approx 500 calories)

 These calorie amounts are all pretty approximate since many of the meals are handmade. By using generous "cup" measurements, I feel confident that I can surpass 6,000 calories per day.

Lower Twin Lake (Day29)
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It turns out to be a couple of pounds of food per day. That is a lot to carry but I need the sustenance and not carrying it will be a motivation to eat plenty... something people often forget to do until they arrive at a fast food joint or restaurant. I will carry most of the snacks in a small bag that hangs from the front of my pack. That way I can pick food, eat, and switch snacks without stopping at all... a great way to maintain my pace!

Lassen Peak (Day30)
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