Wednesday, January 11, 2017

August 2016: Visiting Glacier National Park (Part 2)

Many Glacier lodge
After hiking up to Sperry glacier and back, Laura and I drove to the Apgar backcountry office and reserved our next hike to begin in two days. We were lucky enough to get another great couple spots, camping at Upper Two Medicine Lake and Oldman Lake. But first, we would spend a night in style at the Many Glacier lodge. 
Dinner with a view
Many Glacier lodge was one of the first major buildings to grace the park. We learned the history of the building and the park and had a wonderful fancy dinner, complete with live piano music in the background. We got a top floor room with a great view looking over the lake behind the lodge.

You don't even blink, do you?
Sunset from the window of our room
Mount Grinnel
Relaxing by Swiftcurrent Lake
After a wonderful and restful night of sleep in a soft bed, we packed up and left for our next hike. But first we had a meal at the nearby motor inn. The motor inn was build to serve the middle class when they started buying cars and driving to visit parks. Unlike the ritzy lodge, the inn was required by the government to be affordable to the lower classes back when it was build! And it still is pretty affordable. While there, we did some laundry.

One last look at the lodge
Swiftcurrent Motor Inn
Laundry Time!
St. Mary Visitor Center
On the way back to Two Medicine, we stopped at the St. Mary visitor center and learned more about the history of the park. Sad fact: The US stole it from the native people in a shrewd (and not quite ethical) land deal. Many of these tribes are sad that some of their sacred places were taken away but they are happy that they are being preserved... I think that is gracious of them.
  
Boating across Two Medicine Lake
This beats walking!
When we got to Two Medicine lake, we realized that there was a boat tour across the lake. We chose to ride the boat because it would be fun, feature some great views, and we wouldn't have to walk as far to our campsite. On the way to Upper Two Medicine lake, we stopped to look at twin falls and I took a short swim to fend off the heat.

Going for a dip at Twin Falls
Moose!
We arrived at our campsite early in the evening and met our neighbors. It is always great to meet people on the trail and learn about them! I have met people of all walks of life and from all around the world hiking.

Upper Two Medicine Lake
Lots of friendly neighbors
Amazing evening light
As the sun went down, we sat and took in the scenery. There was a family of goats scaling a rock wall in the distance and we watched them as they worked their way across the sheer face. The next morning was amazing! The sunrise cast a beautiful light over everything and the lake was perfectly still. We were up before anyone else and there were no sounds but nature.

Sunrise
Lone Walker Mountain in the morning
Upper Two Medicine and Lone Walker Mountain
Getting water  in the morning
After breakfast with a few of our neighbors, we packed up and started our hike up to Dawson pass. Today would be a 10 mile hike over two passes and down to Oldman lake. We started by heading back toward Two Medicine but soon turned left and headed past No Name Lake toward the pass.

Laura looking bad ass!
Break time!
Break at No Name Lake
We took a short break to see No Name Lake. It was very green and warm looking. Around thew campsite there were countless little marmots running around in the tall grass. They were really fun to watch! We met a trio of other hikers here who were just leaving to hike the same route as us. We would get to know them really well over the next few days!

Seem high? This is nothing!
Laura gives some perspective of the size of things
Feeling good!
As we climbed up to Dawson pass, the valley below shrunk until Two Medicine lake looked like a small pond in the distance. Toward the top of our climb, Laura and I spotted a family of bighorn sheep and watched them for a while. Finally, we reached Dawson pass and had lunch with an amazing view in nearly every direction!

Looking back from Dawson pass
Looking west from Dawson pass
View north from Dawson pass
View south from Dawson pass
There is something amazing about the moment when you reach a pass and can suddenly see the miles of landscape on the other side that were hidden before. I always feel like the new view is beckoning me to come and explore. We certainly were not done exploring for the day. After our lunch, we headed north around the west side of a couple mountains and across the saddles between them. The trail traversed a pretty steep and dizzyingly high slope with views for miles to the north, west, and south.

Climbing north from Dawson pass
Looking at Lone Wolf mountain from the northwest
Hiking north with a great view!
Looking back along our trail to the south
Oldman Lake with Pitamakan pass behind it
After an hour or two of hiking, we came into view of Oldman Lake, our destination for the night. It seemed so close to us but we had quite a few more miles to go around another mountain and down the far side of the valley. When we arrived at the northwest corner of the mountain (Mount Morgan), we took time to admire the amazing view before heading back down into the valley where we would camp.

Flisch Peak
Mount Morgan
Laura looking amazing
Me flirting with death
Pitamakan and Seven-Winds-Of-The Lakes
Looking west on Pitamakan pass
On our way to the lake, we met a few day hikers from different countries and ages. A couple girls took a picture of us before we hiked down from Pitamakan pass. The hike down was nice. When we arrived at the lake, I started setting up camp while Laura got to know some of our neighbors. She was in for an interesting conversation because there were Grizzlies in the area! According to our neighbors, a mother and cub had been working their way around the lake and were very near our sites. Nobody wandered off alone into the woods but I did get a chance to swim in the lake. That evening, we got to know the trio of hikers that we had met on our way up to Dawson pass. Their names were Larry, Jim, and Claudia and they had a lot in common with us so it was really easy to talk over dinner.

Heading down to Oldman lake
Great place to swim, except for the bears...
Made it back to Two Medicine
The next morning, Laura and I got up early and headed back to Two Medicine campground to get a regular campsite. We wanted to get there quickly so that we could stake our claim before many people arrived. There were more bear spottings by others and we were wary but did not see the mother and cub on our way back to Two Medicine. There, we quickly got a camping site and moved our car to it. After setting things up, we relaxed and planned our next hike together.  Larry, Jim, and Claudia arrived later in the day. They ended up sharing our campsite with us and we all had another great dinner together, this time with a campfire! Laura and I would go on our final hike the next day. I will talk about that in my next post.

Oreo s'more at the campground

Sunday, January 8, 2017

August 2016: Visiting Glacier National Park (Part 1)

Having finished my solo hike across Oregon, I was not yet through with my summer. I watched Laura sing with Portland Opera as a guest artist and then her summer began in earnest. We had decided to spend our joint summer break in Montana at Glacier National Park. Neither of us having been there, we were excited to see this beautiful place that we had heard of from our friends in the area.

Stopping in Rosalia for lunch in a familiar spot from my bike trip
Stopped at Farragut S.P. in Idaho
We drove to Glacier National Park, stopping to visit our friends in Spokane. August is a great month for a drive! It was fun to watch the mountains grow as we headed up into the Rockies!

"Kootenai" is a really fun word to say!
Glacier is a tricky place to camp in August because it is absolutely packed! A certain number of sites can be reserved but those are usually gone very quickly (online) as they become available. So we drove in without an established place to camp. This was very stressful to Laura, who prefers to plan things in advance. Thanks, Laura for trusting me to take care of things in the moment!

View near our Two Medicine campsite
Sunrise on Lone Wolf peak
Tips from our trip about camping at Glacier without a reserved spot:
 1. Don't arrive on a weekend! There are plenty of people in the general area who leave during the week. We arrived on a weekend and it was quite busy!
2. Don't plan on the "best campground" because there really is no such thing. We arrived at the main campground (Apgar) and it was packed! It seemed like we would not get a spot but when we told informed the ranger of our intention to back country hike, he sent us to Two Medicine campground to a "hiker" site. It was a long drive out to a far corner of the park where "nobody goes" but when we got there is was amazingly beautiful! It became kind of our personal favorite place in the park and it was really nice and quiet when everyone cleared out!
3. Camping spots in the campgrounds are first-come-first-serve so lock down those spots EARLY! Arrive in the morning and take a spot as someone else drives away. If you have good people skills, ask someone (who is packing) if they are leaving and sit and wait. The security is worth it!
4. If you are hiking to back country sites, have a plan... have lots of plans! You can reserve open site only for the next 48 hours unless you plan a continuous hike that stretches longer. After camping the night at Two Medicine, I got up at 5 a.m. and waited for the ranger station to open. Laura and I had agreed on 12 different plans for our next hike. I checked them with availability of campsites posted on the station door and only 3 of them worked. Luckily, all of the hikers in the park seemed to be at Apgar and there was no line at Two Medicine. So I went first and took the best hike available before anyone else could!

Amazing morning light!
Not funny! Well, maybe a little...
Two Medicine Ranger station getting an outback campsite
Off to Sperry Glacier!
Hike 1: Sperry Glacier
This is a really cool spot in the park, one of a few paths through the heart of the park. It is usually taken but it was open on that night. So I booked it right away and we left for the other side of the park. It was a long 6 miles up and up from the lake to the chalet, where we had a late lunch.

View across Lake McDonald
Here we go!
Heading up to the glacier
Stream crossing
Laura took some time to relax at the Sperry chalet and I used that time to hike up to the actual glacier. It was another 2-3 miles up past a number of streams, glacial ponds, and rocky terraces.

Glacial stream
Looking back toward the Chalet
Approaching the shelf
Last view of the Chalet
Gunsight mountain to the south
Rocks loosed by glaciers long gone
Nice little pond
Marmot catching some rays
Gonna hike over that pass
Baby iceburg!
Going to climb up that crack in the rock!
Edwards mountain
Stairway to the top!
Looking back down the valley
Looking north from the pass
The view at the top of the hike was amazing! It is so open and barren that high in the mountains but there are so many peaks around that it is difficult to identify anything in sight.

Heading around to the actual glacier
Sperry glacier and Gunsight mountain
Looking west past Edwards mountain
Panorama to the north
Laying on the glacier
Heading back down to the Chalet
From the chalet below the glacier, we hiked another mile or so east to our campsite for the night. Here we met our neighbors for the night, including a crazy lone mountain goat. He liked to follow people around waiting for them to pee. Our spot overlooked Lake McDonald to the west, giving us a great view of an amazing sunset!

Laura looking of the chalet deck
One more look before heading to our site
Just a little farther
Hanging things at the campsite
Stalker goat following someone
Stalker goat
View to the west
Mount Edwards
Lake McDonald in the evening
Nice campsite!
The next day, we hiked back down to the going-to-the-sun road and our car. It was a nice hike and we made some great mileage sailing downhill in the cool morning air.  We drove to the Apgar ranger station and I was able to secure our next hike in two days. But tonight we would stay at the amazing Many Glacier lodge, but that will have to wait until my next post...

Morning view to the west
Breakfast with our neighbors!
Edwards mountain
Heading back down in the shade
Deer friends